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Xi'an(courtesy:www.chinahighlights.com) |
I am not sure when I learnt about the Terracotta warriors of Xian, perhaps a decade ago. This is a pretty recent archaeological discovery and most people I spoke to, except the Chinese, hadn't heard about them. As the story goes, in early 1974 some guy was digging up his land in the Xian province of China, when he struck gold! Or more appropriately Terracotta. Buried beneath this fortunate farmer’s land was a 2000 year old legacy. The emperor Qin Shi Huang had a whole army of 8000+ soldiers, chariots and horses and armory built of terracotta and buried with him for his afterlife. The burial site is so huge that excavation is an ongoing process 45 years after the initial discovery. Talk of unaddressed megalomania 😊.
As I knew hubby and daughter wouldn't be so keen on visiting this site and that our trip was going to be super hectic with visiting 4 cities in 8 days, we almost gave this destination a skip. However, after discussing with his colleagues from China, my hubby was persuaded to not miss this world famous attraction.
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The terracotta army |
Though we're glad we did not give this archaeological delight a miss, I must say that Xian was the most taxing part of our trip. Perhaps we were lesser prepared and did not account for the 'operation style' of Beijing Capital Airlines. We needn't have bothered with buying check-in baggage as the attendant at Tunxi airport asked us if we wanted to carry on board our oversized baggage. Bad decision! We reached Xianyang airport around 2 am in the morning, after a delay of 3 hours for flight-time of 2 hours. The bus-ride from the plane to the terminus took half an hour. It seemed like the plane did not get any landing clearance and we had landed in a neighboring city! Baggage collection took another 1 hour. My poor daughter was terribly sleepy and by the time hubby collected the baggage, I was ready to pass out on the airport lobby. Our hotel here was the cheapest at around 150 RMB per night and also a taxi ride away. Looking forward to a cozy bed I was dismayed when the taxi pulled in to a very uninviting residential street at around 4 am in the morning. All the houses were dark, as expected and what's more even 'Mingxuan Express Hotel' which was a 3 storey building was closed and dark. With my daughter and hubby still in the taxi, in case we needed to head back to airport in search of accommodation, I half-heatedly knocked at the grill. It was opened almost immediately by a 60 something, hefty Chinese man. It seemed like he had been up waiting for us. His wife joined us shortly afterwards. There was some confusion as my hubby showed them our booking and passports and his wife shook her head in denial, saying something we obviously didn't understand. I had typed out "We have booked online" and was about to press translate, when a young female voice shouted at them from an inside bedroom. I figured that she was their daughter and while she did all the online stuff, her parents were actually manning the 'reception'. The couple instantly calmed down and lead us to our room, up 3 flights of stairs. The room and the hotel looked nothing like what was advertised online, but we were too tired to complain.
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Our room as on the website |
Given that we had a very late night, and we were very exhausted by this time of our trip, hubby and me had resolved at the airport itself to not visit the Terracotta warriors, which was an hour and half away from city. We wanted to give our daughter much deserved break and, though it would make our trip to Xian completely useless, we had decided to give this attraction a miss. However, things took a slightly different turn!
GROSS ALERT!
The room had a very dubious lavatory system which meant no toilet paper could be used. After an incident, involving my poor daughter flushing toilet paper down the commode, the father came trudging up 3 floors vacuum pump in hand, shaking his head vehemently, muttering and gesturing. After he fixed the problem, I didn't know whether to feel annoyed at our "wonderful" hotel accommodation or sorry for the 'owner' and how his day started!
Anyway, the daughter communicated via her app with us, while her rustic parents looked on in wonder, and booked us a cab to the Terracotta warrior museum which was an hour away. So we checked out, without much ado or breakfast and were on our way to the Terracotta museum by 12 pm.
The taxi ride to the Terracotta museum passed through highways with impressive, newly built residences on either side. However, some of these looked like ghost towns with very few real residents. I remembered that I had read somewhere about the Chinese government being on a residential township building spree in many of the satellite cities. The supply of these homes, far surpassed the demand. Also, Xian seemed to have a lot of factories and businesses which had contributed to the air pollution there. Though the streets and sidewalks were swept clean, as was the case wherever we traveled in China.
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(The original tourist attraction some 40 years ago!) | | |
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A display detailing the efforts to develop the excavation site into the major tourist attraction it is today |
The taxi deposited us next to the bus-depot at the Terracotta museum. There were loads of buses running from city railroad station to the museum. We crossed the bus depot to the huge information and ticketing hall. It had vending machines, an ATM and drinking water. There were many English speaking male and female guides, around the entrance and inside the huge campus, who offered us their services while touring the museum. They had some earpieces, which they would distribute to their clients, and a microphone which they would talk into as each artifact was visited. As I mentioned before, everything was driven by tech in China. I had read up somewhat about the Terracotta warriors and history behind it and so I decided to be my family's guide and give a more personalized experience 😛.
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Entrance to the museum complex |
As soon as we entered the premises we saw a big M displayed and few sweet shops and my daughter decided that she was very very hungry and needed a cheeseburger right then. However, when we asked we were told all the restaurants were near the exit. This was a huge complex as with most attractions in China and we decided against trudging to the exit and coaxed my daughter with some snacks before proceeding to visit the museum halls.
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Some snacking before the viewing |
The first hall we visited, had more information about the history of the site and of how it was discovered. It was an example of the industriousness of the Chinese people that a site which was discovered a mere four decades ago had been developed into this huge estate. It is one of the major tourist attractions of the world and dwarfs other sites like Mohenjodaro etc. in terms of tourist footfall. The earnestness of Chinese in preserving and maintaining their history is visible. What used to be an open field, with a few hundred nearby villagers gathered around to gawk is now a huge, gated, well-maintained complex spread around acres of land with theaters, outlets of multinational food chains and a full city developing around it which thrives on the tourism it brings.
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A two minute tram ride/ten minute walk to the main courtyard from entrance |
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The walk to the courtyard is lovely too |
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Huge open cemented courtyard in front of the viewing halls which characterize most attractions in China |
The original open pits of the excavation site have been enclosed in massive buildings and raised walls have been built all around the pit. So we walked inside the building to view the pit from a raised viewing platform which surrounds the pit. This arrangement seemed brilliant to me as the public can view the pits from a distance without damaging any of the precious artifacts. There was a wide, enclosed gallery all around the pits for people to view the excavations from all sides. There was ample space but there were more people! It was impossible to stand your ground without being jostled away in a few seconds in most of the coveted positions for a view of the pits, especially in pit 1. We tried to use our elbows and arms to little avail and finally settled for a distant view and trying to spot interesting things in the less interesting corner we had been relegated to. However, soon we were jostled out of that place as well, as we had attracted some interest in that spot as well. It was a classic case of, if someone is looking, there must be something worth looking at 😀.
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Jostling for a good view |
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Settling for a side view |
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A closer look |
In between the exhibition halls were the gift shops and restrooms. We roamed the expensive gift shops, ignoring and being ignored by sellers of beautiful terracotta and jade collectibles who were targeting richer tourists than us and bought ourselves some refreshing pomegranate juice instead. We indulged in an expensive memento instead, a laser engraving of my daughter in glass cube, wearing one of the model headgear worn by the army generals instead. It was ready in ten minutes and would be a sweet reminder of our trip, if I had not misplaced it within a day of unpacking!
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On going excavations |
We wondered at the artistry and craftsmanship of the artisans who made 8000+ soldiers of different stature and height according to their stature. The heights of the soldiers were according to their position in the army with the generals being tallest and foot soldiers of more modest proportions. What was amazing was that each and every individual had a different expression! Excavation was ongoing and most of the intact soldiers, chariots and horses had been removed from the pit to be placed in display cases and elsewhere. What remained in the pits were broken wheels, parts of soldiers and horses along with few intact soldiers. They were in pretty good shape considering they had lain there for 2000 odd years. The experience would have been much better were the crowd well managed.
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A kneeling archer |
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A soldier in a "holding bow and arrow" pose. The weapons have disintegrated or been removed for safekeeping |
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Check out the general's scary expression |
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A photograph with the army |
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Piecing together broken artifacts |
We exited the museum in a few hours as there is only so much you can do with a hungry 9 year old in a museum, even with beautiful gardens and lots of place to run and play. We had more fun just outside the museum trying out fried ice cream, steamed plum juice and many of the local delicacies on offer. We also found the McDonalds and my daughter finally had her cheeseburger. Outside we also bought ourselves less pricey versions of the terracotta soldiers sold in the gift shops inside.
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Mementos at the gift shop |
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Posing for a laser in-scripted memento in glass |
We also chanced upon shop selling fried scorpions, beetles and crickets and stood there for sometime trying to muster up the courage to try these. Alas, we let it go for a next trip.
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Fried scorpions on sale |
We took a bus back to the train station, through the city. It was a mini tour of Xian city as our trip that morning by taxi had been via the highway bypassing the city. The love for bright lights, shimmer and the color red was evident throughout our long bus ride though city roads sparkling with street lights of various shapes and designs, decorated with red lanterns in the night.
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Shops outside the complex |
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Fried ice-cream |
Xian city was busy and full of shopping arcades. The bus dropped us near the ancient wall inside Xian and next to the railway station. We had to take another bus to the airport from there. Although we did a little bit of sightseeing near the wall, on reflection I think we should have taken a direct taxi to the airport from the Terracotta museum.
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Beautiful streetlights of Xian city |
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Ancient wall around Xian city |
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Xian city roads from inside the bus |
For an airport servicing a historical site, the airport was as modern as ever. We were blown away by the extent of technology and gawked at everything. Obviously, we were tourists as the Chinese were unaffected and I suppose quite amused by our wonder and surprise. Something that we saw for the first time at an airport was a facial recognition system that scanned our faces and displayed our forthcoming flight details. We were impressed and also unnerved by the amount of information that the authorities had to have at their fingertips about all of us!
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A nap cubicle at the airport |
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Scan face to get your flight information! |
There were more parts to Xi'an which we would have liked to explore, like the Muslim quarters in the city, but our short time there wasn't enough for that. Xi'an was an interesting mix of old and new and we were glad we included it in our itinerary. Next was the biggest and final part of our China tour. As before, we took a night flight to our next destination!